Testing Deadman Anchors

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No dirt to dig? No problem. Cairn anchors use pure mass and geometry to create bomber rigging points from surface rocks—if you build them right.

Summary:

Part 3 of the dead man anchor series covers cairn anchors: above-ground rock piles with sufficient mass to serve as anchors, without any burial required.

Cairn Clarification:

Trail cairns: 1-2 stacked rocks marking paths (sometimes helpful, sometimes annoying)
Anchor cairns: Substantial rock piles engineered for load-bearing

Foundation Principles:

Step 1: Find favorable geometry

Look for natural rock features: slight upward slopes, edges, or contours
Use terrain to your advantage before adding mass

Step 2: Start with a flat base rock

Advantage 1: Bottom surface matches ground surface = better friction
Advantage 2: Provides stable platform for stacking additional mass

Three Cairn Configurations (Tested):

Configuration 1: Basic Stack

Flat base rock with mass stacked directly on top
Stable and usable
Limitation: Difficult to inspect webbing once built

Configuration 2: Inspectable (Advanced)

Same flat base rock
Two large flat rocks placed in front on either side of webbing
Additional mass bridged over top, keeping webbing visible
Advantage: Webbing remains inspectable after construction

Configuration 3: Elevated Inspectable

Base rock elevated on two flat rocks
Mass added in front
Advantage: Space between ground and cairn bottom allows easy webbing inspection or replacement
Could accommodate retrievable toggle system

Real-World Testing (with Joe Storms):

Initial test:

Anchor overbuilt—wouldn't budge despite aggressive pulling

Removed rocks to reduce mass
Still held with hard pulling in realistic rappel position (pulling down, webbing low)
Removed more rocks—still held
Upward pull test: Even pulling up (unrealistic rappel scenario) didn't cause failure

Key Insight:

Properly constructed cairn anchors with adequate mass and favorable geometry can provide surprising strength, even without burial.

Critical Technique Reference:

See "Friendly Friction and Meat" video for techniques to make cairn anchors bomber through backup systems, soft starts, and proper testing protocols.

Series Context:

Final installment of 3-part dead man/cairn anchor series covering construction, webbing techniques, and above-ground alternatives.