Friendly Friction & Meat

Summary:

This video demonstrates two critical techniques for safely using marginal anchors: leveraging friction to reduce loads and implementing proper meat backup sequencing.

Friction Testing (53 lb kettlebell, 50 lb scale capacity):

Three real-world tests show how rope-on-rock contact dramatically reduces anchor loads:

• Test 1 (minimal rock contact): Scale read 21 lbs—friction held 60% of the load

• Test 2 (increased rock contact): Scale read 18.5 lbs—friction held 64% of the load

• Test 3 (maximum contact, ~90° edge): Scale read 16 lbs—friction held 70% of the load

The Soft Start Technique:

Rappelling by simply leaning back from standing creates a dangerous lever effect that multiplies the load on your anchor. Instead:

• Start from a sitting position as you go over the edge

• Maintain contact (even one butt cheek against the rock)

• Stay in contact until sufficient rope-on-rock friction is established

• This technique minimizes shock loading on marginal anchors

Meat Backup Sequencing:

Demonstrated with three rappellers (Adolfo, Shane, and Dana) on a shrubbery anchor:

1. First rappeller: Backed up by two meat anchors, rigged with releasable connections (VT prusiks)

3. Test the anchor: Release the meat backup to shift load onto the natural anchor and verify it holds

5. Second rappeller: Backed up by one remaining meat anchor

7. Third rappeller: Goes last with highest confidence after the anchor has been tested twice

Key Principle: Releasable connections allow you to progressively test marginal anchors under controlled conditions before committing full body weight. Combined with friction advantages and soft starts, even questionable natural features can become functional anchors.