An Overhand Knot is an Overhand Not

Summary:

This video clarifies the critical distinction between overhand knots and overhand bends, demonstrates the massive strength differences, and explains when each is appropriate—with real pull test data.

Terminology & Function:

Overhand Knot:

• Tied to create a loop or secure a single strand

• Used around anchors (rethreaded) or tied on a bight for carabiners/rappel rings

• Must be loaded on major axis (along the long strand)

Overhand Bend (aka Water Knot or Ring Bend):

• Tied to join two pieces of webbing or create a loop loaded in a different direction

• "Water knot" is misleading—it functions as a bend, not a knot

• Must be loaded on major axis (pulling the loop apart, not the tails)

Flat Overhand:

• Overhand knot with both tails exiting the same side

• NEVER ACCEPTABLE for joining webbing or load-bearing applications

• Introduces two failure mechanisms: reduced strength + knot roll-off

Strength Loss Data:

Baseline: 1" tubular webbing rated 4,000 lbs

Overhand Bend (correct use):

• Strength reduction: ~35%

• Breaking strength: ~2,600 lbs

• Tails: Started 4.5", ended 4.25" (0.25" lost to tightening)

Flat Overhand (incorrect use):

• Strength reduction: >70%

• Breaking strength: 1,178 lbs (less than 30% of rated strength)

• Tails: Started 4.5", rolled to 2" during pull test

• Dual failure risk: Catastrophic strength loss + knot can roll off the tails

Proper Applications:

✅ Overhand Knot (acceptable):

• Webbing tight around anchor, loading single strand on major axis

• Tied on a bight at webbing end for rappel ring/carabiner

✅ Overhand Bend (acceptable):

• Joining two pieces of webbing

• Creating loop around object loaded perpendicular to tails

❌ Flat Overhand (unacceptable):

• Joining webbing (use bend instead)

• Any load-bearing application where knot holds significant weight

• Visible rigging that others might see and copy

The "Two-Step Process": If you're Rich's partner and tie a flat overhand incorrectly:

1. Bitch slapping

2. Retying it correctly as a bend

One Exception—Wrap 3 Pull 2 / Wrap 2 Pull 1:

Flat overhand is acceptable ONLY in this retrievable rigging configuration when:

• Bend is placed at front of anchor

• Friction around anchor holds virtually all load (none on the bend)

• Intent is to retrieve the webbing

Caveat: Rich prefers not to use flat overhand even here if webbing will be left behind, to avoid teaching bad habits to less experienced climbers who might misapply it.

Critical Thinking Over Rules: Early learners need rules, but experienced practitioners must develop discernment. Understand the principles behind knot selection:

• Load direction matters

• Failure mechanisms compound

• Tying correctly takes only seconds more

• Your partners' lives depend on it

Bottom Line: It takes mere seconds to tie a bend correctly instead of a flat overhand. There's no excuse for introducing 70% strength loss and roll-off risk when proper technique is faster than justifying the shortcut.